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There are some fine choices in there — including a Shanghai-style dumpling vendor and a few spots that sell dollar congee and soy-braised chicken thighs — but the best and first dining option for anyone visiting Sunset Park is Peng Shun.

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Mochi-like pancakes stuffed with a mound of eggs are portable and filling, but the signature item here are the fresh Portuguese and Hong Kongish egg tarts.

One of the original mash-up desserts, these egg tarts are a teatime wonder made of wobbly custard set in a beautifully flaky pastry.

The floppy dumplings are packed loosely with juicy pork and green onion and served ten to an order with a gingery dipping sauce.

The dining area is a handful of small tables appointed with hot sauce and sleeves of sad little napkins, and the satellite television might be blasting Chinese military dramas, but the jiaozi and steamed bao are so good that you probably won’t What began as a comically adorable husband-and-wife operation in a cramped side-street kitchen is now a fully staffed restaurant on Eighth Avenue’s main stretch.

Chi Ken is not a first-date place (or a 19-date place) unless you are most confident in a quasi-gonzo setting of pork necks and slabs of blood-thickened rice cake and bottles of imported milk tea that come in quirky bottles shaped like ripped naked dudes.

The signature popcorn chicken is made from spice-marinated thigh meat that has been dredged with sweet-potato flour.

Peng Shun also serves a bargain jianbing, the dosa-like stuffed crêpe strewn with egg, meat, and an application of sweet, dark fermented soybean paste.

Perhaps best of all is an bowlful of whitefish fillets served with rolls of yuba; a mix of bean sprouts, yellow chives, and raw, shredded ginger; and a fiery broth garnished with chopped coriander stems and a scattering of dried red chiles.

Spicy dried soybeans, fermented bamboo shoots, pickled long beans, and preserved cabbage round out the flavors, and some customers add a couple of eggs that are braised in tea until purplish-brown.

Think of the tripe, which is golden-fried and served with sweet chile sauce, as Guilin-style The Sunset Park branch of this Cantonese chainlet, open from 6 a.m. daily, is pretty much a diner that teems with customers slurping congee and eating rice casseroles with salted chicken and preserved duck.

One recent specimen measured in at 16 inches, fins to suckers.

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