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After the epoxy hardens in the holes (48 hours at room temperature), I smooth it off with a sanding disk in a grinder.

Whatever works for smoothing is fine, just avoid anything but cosmetic damage.

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I recommend saving a blotter with the cured fill epoxy on it, and smearing some of the screw placement epoxy on the original. One reason for using slow cure epoxy is the lack of heat which can soften existing epoxy or ski resin layers.) Another method of filling old holes for re-drilling is to epoxy hardwood plugs.

This method has its advantages as the plugs can be more structural than the epoxy and steel wool method.

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Use the slower curing epoxy as it’s stronger than the 5-minute versions and makes less heat.

Wait 48 hours at room temperature for a full cure before the next step.

I love the ski but want to take off the tele bindings and put on a pair of Dynafits. As for re-drilling skis, there is a traditional view in ski culture that drilling extra binding holes devalues a ski and weakens it to the point where one should be cautious about using it hard.

This might still be true for large aggressive skiers using non-release telemark bindings or DIN 16 touring binders set to max.

If the holes don’t overlap but are super close to your new ones, still fill the old holes with epoxy steel and steel wool, otherwise fill the holes with regular 5-minute epoxy, or even use the plastic plugs available from ski shops. If the ski doesn’t have a metal layer, start the drilling with a small bit, then step up through successively larger bits to your final size.

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